Michigan, US, 14th January 2025, ZEX PR WIRE, As a writer with a penchant for vintage timepieces, attending auctions has become something of a ritual for me. There’s a unique thrill in witnessing the bidding wars, the anticipation as each lot is unveiled, and the camaraderie among fellow enthusiasts. I have been assigned to all the major auctions in Hong Kong, Geneva and New York over the years and the attendees are usually all men. However, over the last several auctions I observed a man and woman, dressed impeccably, sitting in the front row and bidding aggressively on some of the major pieces in both Geneva and New York. Of course, my curiosity was piqued and I had to find out who this man and woman were, so after a long day of bidding I approached them, introduced myself and below is a brief story on what took place.
Eric Brahms was his name, and he was in attendance with his beautiful wife Emily Brahms. Eric is a watch dealer and collector based out of Greenwich, Connecticut, and it was quickly apparent that this man knew not only the important details and nuances of assessing vintage timepieces, but the business side of auctions and buying and selling.
After striking up a conversation with Eric, I was eager to learn more about his journey into the world of vintage watches. What followed was a fascinating glimpse into his extensive knowledge and deep appreciation for horological treasures.
“I am a self-taught historian of vintage watches,” Eric shared. “There is no school or course on how to be a watch dealer, it started as a hobby, but when I saw the types of profit margins and returns on watches- I quickly realized this was a financial vehicle that could yield returns far better than gold or the stock market with significantly less risk. The intricate craftsmanship and timeless appeal of vintage timepieces, coupled with their ability to appreciate in value over time, convinced me of their unparalleled investment potential. I remember as a kid hearing the Will Rogers quote “Buy land, they ain’t making any more of the stuff” and it’s the same with these vintage watches. “Sure, they can pump out 10 million new watches a year, but the vintage Pateks with Lemania movements, or the Rolex Daytona with Valjoux movements…those watches will never be made again and every year more and more get lost, damaged or destroyed making the remaining watches more and more valuable.”
As he continued the discussion, it became apparent that his passion for vintage timepieces transcended mere financial gain. With a keen eye for detail and an unwavering commitment to originality, he clearly was an expert in determining what parts came from the factory and which parts had been replaced over the years on any watch from a single photograph. “The value of a watch comes down to two major factors.. condition and originality” Brahms states, “If a watch is 100% original and beat to hell, then it isn’t very desirable and if a watch is completely restored to “like new” condition with every original part replaced with service or aftermarket parts then it isn’t very valuable…This industry is a minefield because there are so many watches assembled from a mish mosh of random parts or even completely fake parts and if you don’t know what you’re looking at or what to look for then you will quickly learn how to part you from your money.”
One aspect of Eric’s expertise that particularly piqued my interest was his involvement in handling high-value timepieces, such as the Rolex Paul Newman RCO Daytona, which he was wearing during this interview. He recounted his experiences with these iconic watches, highlighting the unique aspects and challenges associated with dealing in such rarefied pieces. He told me that he was in the process of selling this Paul Newman to a local collector, who requested to have the watch verified by his friend- who was a collector with over 5 million in vintage Rolex watches and the only person he trusted to inspect the watch. Eric’s answer was “You can have the watch vetted by anyone you want in the entire world, but I’m telling you that every single part on this RCO is genuine, original and period correct. I urge you to please have it vetted as it will only make the watch easier to sell once your expert friend confirms my findings.” Here is where the story got funny; The potential buyer sent over a wrist shot of a Paul Newman in his friend’s collection and the watch was completely fake. Fake case, fake dial, fake bezel and looked like a $500 Vietnamese copy. Eric tells the buyer “If this is the guy you plan on verifying my watch, you better find someone else because he can’t even vet his own watch, what he’s wearing is a very bad fake.” The potential buyer states “How can you tell that his watch is a fake from one picture on his wrist? You don’t work for Rolex, you aren’t a watchmaker, so how can you be so sure?” Eric Brahms replies “Are you a plastic surgeon?” The potential buyer replies “No, I am not”. Eric says, “If I show you a picture of a botched breast implant with one breast 6 inches higher than the other, would you know they were fake?” The potential buyer says, “Yes if it’s that obvious then I’m sure I could tell.” Eric replies “That’s how fake your friend’s watch is. I only need one picture to know and I don’t need to work for Rolex to see it”.
As our conversation continued, Eric shared insights into the evolving market demand for Vintage watches in general. “Women have all sorts of accessories to give them their own unique style such as bags, shoes, and sunglasses at their disposal to create their own unique look. Men, on the other hand, don’t have as much. A wristwatch to me tells a lot about the person wearing it. The brand, the metal, if it has precious stones or if it’s a grand complication or diving watch. It’s not at all about the value of the watch. For example, I see guys wearing a 1 million dollar Richard Mille and I know exactly what that guy is all about by just looking at his wrist. Is that a form of profiling? I suppose it is, but no more so than the woman wearing an Alligator Birkin with 7 Cartier love bracelets, it transcends gender. I always feel less is more and a guy wearing a stainless Paul Newman from 1970 in a pair of Levi’s, is infinitely more interesting to me than the guy wearing head to toe Balmain or Gucci sporting a modern Rose Gold Patek 5980.”
As we concluded our conversation, I couldn’t help but marvel at Eric Brahms’ passion and expertise. In the world of vintage timepieces, auctions serve as thrilling arenas where enthusiasts converge to admire, bid on, and acquire horological treasures. Yet, amidst the excitement, the importance of working with a trustworthy dealer cannot be overstated. An established dealer has a dedication to authenticity and preservation that ensures each timepiece retains its integrity–safeguarding the legacy of horology for generations to come. Their expertise not only enhances the collecting experience but also fosters a sense of trust and confidence among collectors.